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|"The Smallest of feline is a Masterpiece"|
|...Leonardo Da Vinci|
|This page is dedicated to my oldest daughter, Tammy, who really was the one who got me so dedicated to felines in the first place! Tammy worked diligently , as a veterinary technician for 10 years before starting her own family. Or should I say adding to it? Her "family", before Tyler, consisted of five indoor cats and even more "barncats". Each and every one a special "member of the family!" She continues to work as a technician, gaining knowledge from each and every veterinarian, and each client.
Tammy , residing in a new home, with new carpeting, and new furniture, with endless experience with many different situations with cats, kittens and their owners, I felt, was the perfect person to help me write this page! This page will deal with very important issues, feline dental care, nutrition, and declawing, also a few tips on bathing.
We hope this page will answer questions and/or concerns, or help to enlighten and further our education on the world's favorite pet!
|Kittens are our "kids",
|Dental care is an important issue, one we all, as cat owners, need to educate ourselves on! It is important that you try using a pet "finger brush" with pet toothpaste at least once a week. OR- as Tammy suggests, she uses Hill's (Science Diet) TD- a veterinarian's prescription food to help remove tartar from kitty's teeth, and a whole lot easier if you've never tried brushing your older cat's teeth!-No- we are not trying to promote one company's food! There may be other brands just as effective! Ask your veterinarian!|
|Only the BEST is Good Enough!|
|Tammy disagrees with me that by-products are not a good food ingredient, "while beaks, feathers and hair very well may be the by-product of a poor ,cheap petfood", she says, the liver, spleen, and other organ parts, also called by-products, are very nutritional! "You just have to know and trust your Petfood company" she says.|
|While bathing is not recommended for kittens 6 mos. and younger, we, here at Jan's, find it necesary at times to insure a kitten is not going home with a possible injury, or other skin problem. I recommend you fill a basin with warm water, hold kitten/cat by scruff of neck, slowly submerge, except for head. A 5 gal bucket in the tub works well for older cats, with a bar across for them to "hold onto". (Don't try this if you are unsure of yourself, or have no help!- go to a proffessional groomer!!) Use a mild kitty-safe shampoo, suds up, rinse WELL- prefferably with a spray nozzle, then rinse again!. Wipe eyes, ears with no shampoo clear water washcloth. Dry either with towel, and keep kitty in WARM place, hairdryer blower,if your kitty will tolerate it, on LOW, or with a space-heater set in front of carrier- (Check setting to make sure it is not too hot!)-OR- you may use a high setting for 5 minutes, and low setting for 1 hour , heating pad- plastic type- or waterproof.
Do NOT bathe more than once every 6-8 weeks!
Not enough can ever be said here in The U.S. about this sad procedure, sadly, still promoted! The procedure not only involves removing the claw, but the first joint bone also, connective tissues and nerves! No wonder most European countries outlaw it as "extreme cruelty". My own veterinarians, while I trust them completely, will still do the procedure, simply because, some people are so "set in their ways"- they will find another vet to do it! A vet, who, perhaps will "blow" a small cat's lungs with improper or too much anesthesia,or- not even use the "pain-patch", now availale, to subside the excruciating pain this surgery entails! However, the initial surgery is just the beginning! After the surgery, they often will have a "wooden" feeling" in their feet, which may be why often they later quit using the litterbox- (it "feels" unnatural.) Then, too, you have a cat who instinctively knows it's main defense is gone, leaving it vulnerable, perhaps feeling shy, frightened, withdrawn. It may, at some time, turn to biting. Last of all, but most importantly, declawing takes away a cat or kitten's favorite activity! CLIMBING! Climbing is second nature to all small felines! A TALL scratching post, (tall enough for the adult cat to STRETCH to it's max both vertically and horizontally) made with a berber carpet, or indoor/outdoor is essential- start them out right- you'll NEVER have a problem! (better still is one with activities, 4' tall- ceiling height!)- Tammy said she draped blankets or sheets over her furniture, when introducing a new kitten or cat, until it was made well aware of where its' scratching and climbing territory was! She also suggests that you use double sided tape where you do not want your cat or kitten to scratch- they HATE anything sticky!
Lastly, don't leave your kitten unattended in rooms where damage may take place- UNTIL you have trained him! This may take longer if you are away often, but the time spent training will prove well worth it!