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Our goal has been to produce beautiful, loving, healthy kittens, special kittens for special people! Raised with love as PETS, not for show purposes, and NOT for pro-creation. Dedicated to providing you with the best up-to-date, comprehensive feline pet education available. Here, at this site, you will find useful knowledge, gathered from more than 30 years of experience with raising and caring for felines, pet/person relations, and from feline experts who sincerely care.
We think our kittens and cats are pretty special just the way they are without a need of re-designing!
Claws INTACT
Tragically, there are people who actually view the declawed cat as "normal". They don't know what they are missing
(but their cat does). You don't experience a REAL cat if it's declawed. While declawed cats, not unlike a physically handicapped person, may adjust and never show outward changes, a declawed cat, unfortunately, is a maimed cat, unable to satisfy physical needs as nature intended. (People against declaw SPEND their money to stop it, not promote it to MAKE money!) ...Why? Because they have EXPERIENCED proof of declaw after-effects!
It is a known fact that long term changes may occurr in years following declaw surgery, physical changes & medical problems such as chronic or intermittent pain, paw lameness or limping (from regrown claws? leftover bone fragments? ghost pains?), painful arthritis, weakening and atrophied muscles that may cause injury or broken limbs, stress and trauma induced illnesses like diabetes, urinary tract infection, and numerous other problems finally coming to the forefront as more veterinarians and animal behaviorists study and analyze the consequences of declawing a cat.
Psychological changes may also include extreme excitability, shyness, regression, increased aggression, inapropriate or non-use of the litterbox and biting. Don't Do it! Under any circumstance. Scratching- WITH CLAWS is an important excersise! Please take the time to learn WHY declawing really IS cruel, and why we are so adamant here at Jan's Kitten Kids in our convictions to never again adopt a sweet, innocent living kitten to those who have not taken the time to update their knowledge on responsible, proper pet care that helps to insure the health and happiness of both pet and owner. Choose EDUCATION, forget the Amputation! Learn for the sake of your kitten's LIFE!

Please Support
The Paw Project!

Open Letter to Future Adoptees

What Happens when You declaw-Pictorial

Declawing IS cruel!

Spay/Neuter assistance

Jan's is an
ANTI-DECLAW website!
EDUCATION IS FREE!

Do you really UNDERSTAND?

Cat Compatibility Test!

Simply A-MEWS-ing!
(cat furniture)

First Care for Your New Kitten-(scroll)

For the Love of a Cat
-a poem written with HOPE

ME N' My TREE!

Those *Cat Days* of Summer

Laser declaw-
more humane?

Help Make Declawing
A cruelty of the PAST!

Questions / answers abt US

SPECIAL kittens for SPECIAL people!

*If interested in cat/kitten adoption, please Email for pre-adoption form.

Adopting the older cat or kitten...
Please don't pass up that older cat or kitten! They may take a week or longer to adjust to new surroundings but once they bond they are loyal loving pets. Older cats are less demanding or delicate as a small kitten, past the stage of many problems, and waiting for your love.
Just be sure you have a *sanctuary room* ready before kitty's arrival, a nice tall, STURDY berber or sisal covered cat tree, his own dishes filled with fresh water, nutritious food, and litterbox in place, along with toys. Don't try to hold him, but coax him with affection. Let him come to you, and don't be discouraged if it doesn't happen within a few days, be patient. If there are other pets, make introductions slowly, but not untill the newcomer is getting used to YOU. Interchange blankets, toys and petting, but don't worry if your resident pet growls or hisses at YOU, they, too will adjust in time. Adopt an older cat today! Check local shelters today-please give a generous donation to NO-Kill shelters.

ENTER Jan's Kitten Kids...

Do YOU , or someone you know have a landlord that insists cats need to be declawed? Please EMAIL their name & address or contact info!

Help/Info to enlighten the Uninformed Landlord...

One of the most IMPORTANT articles for every cat/kitten lover to pass on

Paws need Claws campaign!

Ragdolls/Rag-A-Pers/Manxdolls

Declaw help sites in RED

Ragdoll Kittens for People who do NOT declaw

Laser Declawing now available for YOUR convenience!

-when you pick up your new furbaby,Visit the new
National Mississippi River Museum/ Aquarium
Enjoy DUBUQUE, IA!
WELCOME! to our Neighborhood...

WHY cats need claws

Laser declaw-

The website for People who love cats and understand their " fingers and toes"
are forever!

Please NOTE:

If interested in Kittens or Cats please EMAIL for pre-adoption form

*-adoptions ONLY to people committed to NOT declawing!-

New Kittens shown here soon! Ready to go home end of June:
Sealpoint, bluepoint, Bicolor! Adorable!
Ready to go home in July:
Bicolor, bluepoint, lynxpoint, flamepoint

Kittens Available!
(sealpoint, bluepoint, lynxpoint, flamepoint and bicolors!)

See more of us on the KITTEN PAGE!

Congratulations Lori & Brian!

This year we have an abolutely GORGEOUS
selection of kittens!
Till end of August I am offering 10% off first kitten to no-declaw forever homes
(Gas price disco?unt)
PLUS 205 off second kitten adopted to
Same family at the SAME time!



	Kitty Comes Home By Jan Huber / Jan's Kitten Kids You will soon have a new member in your family! He or she should give you many years of companionship and pleasant memories. Remember, your new little companion will not only be frightened in new surroundings, but will be very lonely without his/her siblings and friends! If you are gone often, it would be very wise to consider TWO kittens! Two are twice the fun, twice the love, and double easier for you and them. But be sure you can, and are financially able to. Have a NEW PET VET CHECK ASAP after your kitty comes home. Establishing your new furbaby with a dependable veterinarian is very important! CHOOSING YOUR VET / Healthcare - All vets are not good FELINE vets! Ask your vet if he or she has cats at home, ask if they have been declawed, ask them if they feel it is fair to amputate the end of a kitten/cat's toes for the convenience of the owner. Ask for references from other cat owners. Check to see if dogs and cats are kept together in the same room. Lastly, when your kitten/cat is examined, be sure you are satisfied with the way it is handled by personnel, as often these are the people who will most often handle your pet. SANCTUARY ROOM-have ready a small room or area that is safe and closed off from the rest of the house, (NOT a carrier or pen, unless more than 5 feet Square), a place large enough for ample exercise! Keep kitty here for first week or two when you are not home and observing till kitty learns house rules. Be sure room is complete with bed, toys, food & water, with uncovered litterbox filled with unscented dust-free natural clay litter. make sure litterbox is not in the vicinity of it's food and water! Soft music, or a radio or television playing when you are gone often helps kitten feel more secure. Windows with a shelf or cat tree placed in front of a window is a good choice for kitty's room. Training-The way in which you raise your kitten starting with the early, formative weeks and months, into adulthood are of the utmost importance! Taking the time to actually TEACH/TRAIN your kitten will make the difference between owning a loving, well behaved kitten vs. one which has had no training and ends up frightened, aggressive, destructive, and/or totally out of control. Always remember your kitten is special, no matter what it's breed or combination of, please make the most of your own special kitty by giving your best! This means, like with children, QUALITY attention and taking the time to train, Not MAIM. (Declawing is looked on by anyone with cat Savvy as cruel and inhuman, because it is.) Declaw Issue-There is NEVER a GOOD, or even plausible reason to declaw, it's a sad misconception that over the years has generated big bucks into clinics, but is unnecessary and cruel, leaving long term problems in years to follow, which simply cannot be addressed once this permanent damage has been executed. Instead: START OUT WITH A GOOD CAT TREE-BEFORE you bring kitty home! (And YES, declawed cats and clawed cats CAN live in harmony)- clawed cats recognize handicaps, like humans do, and compensate for them! Try softpaws nailcaps if you are not sure on training yet.( $20 for pkg. of 40) Apply to fronts only! Though most find them unnecessary, it is OK for the first few weeks for those who are still not convinced of the importance of a cat staying whole. Try sticky Paws* double tape where kitty scratches drape old sheets or blankets over furniture till kitty is happily using her own furniture. Most important of all-get her her own furniture and start out right! A nice tall cat tree with berber or sisal poles and ample shelves so she can stretch and scratch horizontal or vertical, spray some catnip scent at the base nod on the pole(s). You will then have a happy kitty and a happy YOU! If bad habits never start, you'll never have a problem. You can make cat trees inexpensively with wood poles, a little plywood or pressed wood, steel L brace brackets and some sisal rope and or berber carpet remnants and a staple gun. Or buy one at Walmart, not a short one, but the floor to ceiling tension pole model works great for a starter, running about $36. Beautiful homemade ones can be purchase online, or on ebay. Don't make the mistake of buying an expensive fluffy one aimed at pleasing people, not cats. When you find the right one, don't put it in a corner somewhere where kitty doesn't go and it won't be used. Kittens and cats are not toys, nor do they have the ability to be mean or vindictive, they simply act on instinct, and/or perhaps your reaction to an incident. Good Habits are really easy to teach, but like with children, consistency is important. Don't start by letting kitty use your fingers to chew on! Nipping in play is common, but must be stopped immediately. You can flick your finger on the mouth, or simply get up and walk away after saying NO! Often older kittens will like jumping up on countertops or tables, this must be discouraged early on if it is undesirable in your home. A sharp NO, a slap on the table with a rolled newspaper, or a squirt from a squirtgun for really persistent cats WILL work. I am not an advocate of the squirtgun method, but in persistent cases it can be effective as long as not overdone and not done by children or in their presence. FEEDING: Here kittens (@10-12 wks) are fed twice a day, in the morning they get half a 3 oz can of PREMIUM canned food, on the side, in a separate dish they get 3 different premium dry foods (or kibble) to measure about 1/4 cup. The dry is refilled in evenings, as well as water bowl wiped and fresh water replaced. Stick with this for first week, after a couple weeks you can choose the one or two dry foods that work best for your kitten. If you switch to a different food, be sure it is nutritious and that you switch slowly. Fresh water is the key! INCREASE with demand/age, be sure kitty gets all she wants. You may want to use bottled water for the first week if your water is different from where kitty was raised . TREATS: treats are very instrumental in training kitty, but be SURE they are NATURAL treats, and that they are RECOMMENDED FOR KITTENS! Then use only half the amount suggested for an adult. I use M&C treat-ums in Cranberry, kittens LOVE them, also the greenies are delectable, but there are many brands available good for kittens, check them out. LITTER AND LITTERBOX: Keep the top OFF the litterbox for first week or two, it is wise to use TWO smaller litterboxes, one for urinating, one for solid wastes, it just works better. I do NOT advocate clumping litter. It is too fine, and too easily digested. it expands after digestion, and has been thought (but not yet proven) to cause possible health problems. Also, it is not biodegradable or natural, so disposal is a likely problem. Ingredients: learn to read ingredients in your pets' food! First ingredient listed should be MEAT (Specified, eg.-chicken, turkey, duck, beef, lamb) Just the word meat can mean euthanized dogs, cats! Byproducts from a good, reputable company can mean spleen, liver, etc., but cheaper foods may use beaks, feathers, hair etc.-which is INDIGESTIBLE protein, but still legally listed on the label as a protein percentage. Ground yellow corn or soybean should not be the first ingredient, nor should either be mentioned more than twice, or added up it may be actually a main ingredient. Remember, toxins cannot be cooked out! You don't want to feed food from a company that uses rendered diseased or euthanized animals in it's food! Cheap petfood is often the main reason for health problems and costly vet bills. GROOMING: It is important to daily handle all parts of your kitten to make nail trimming and other grooming habits routine and enjoyable if not at least tolerable. Invert ear and wipe out with dampened cotton square, gently wipe corners of eyes with clean, warm, damp cotton square, use a q-tip to clean nostrils at the base. Brush gently with slant-wire brush Short haired and kittens), or metal tined comb (long-haired breeds) to remove dead hairs and prevent matting. Finish with good natural bristle brush. Bathing: If you want to bathe your kitten/Cat, do so no more than once every 6-8 weeks, using SAFE (for kittens) hypoallergenic shampoo or mild, hypoallergenic baby wash for hair and body. If you are novice you may want to watch it being done by and expert first. DANGERS: Never leave your new kitten/cat alone with a small child, or a dog! Watch carefully for recliners, open windows, dryers, washers, keep lids closed, drawers, cupboards and closets shut! Kitties are well known to like to pick up small strings, cigarette pack pulls, rubber bands, etc., which when digested can lead to intestinal obstruction. Avoid poisonous plants such as Azalea, lilies, Jerusalem cherry, etc. Note: If your kitten is a second pet, please advise me, I will send information on introductions! Books I recommend for learning GOOD cat care and training are: The New Natural Cat by Anitra Frazier-purchase at Amazon.com The Cat Who Cried for Help: Attitudes, Emotions, and the Psychology of Cats by Dr. Nicholas Dodman:http://www.sparklecat.com/BookReviews/Cat-Help-Review.shtml